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Thread: how to port and polish throttle body write up

  1. #1
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    Default how to port and polish throttle body write up

    i saw this on ls2 and wanted to share with u guys thanks to jumpcable for the write up

    LS THROTTLE BODY PORT AND POLISH INSTRUCCIONS

    I decided to go ahead with this mod in preparation for my cam install that I did back in January. I was a little hesitant at first because my MAF porting and polishing job was a little harder than I expected it to be. Well, after doing some searching on the Internet for some before and after pictures, getting all the required tools and materials and sucking it in, I went ahead and started the job.

    Materials I used:

    * 1 tube of MagnaSteal epoxy (AutoZone - $5)
    * 1 pack of 80 grit sanding drums (Wal-Mart - $7)
    * 1 adjustable speed Dremel
    * 1 Angle grinding stone (Wal-Mart - $5)
    * 1 pack of 180 grit sanding paper (Wal-Mart - $3)
    * 1 polishing kit for my Dremel (Wal-Mart - $12)
    * ¼ Ratchet
    * 10mm socket
    * Flat Head screwdriver
    * Torqx 15 driver
    * Ballpoint pen casing
    * 1 can of compressed air
    * 1 bottle of rubbing alcohol


    1.) First remove your air intake and MAF and put em aside.

    2.) Remove the electrical connectors to the throttle body.

    3.) Take the ratchet and 10mm socket and remove the three bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold.


    4.) After the TB is free from the car, take it to a safe place where you have ample light to grind away at it. Also, be sure to stuff a clean rag into the exposed intake opening. At this point, take the IAC out of the TB with the torx driver. This is so you can make sure you can check to make sure the inlet area is free from epoxy.

    5.) First step in the process is to make sure you have all the right tools ready at hand and then examine the throttle body. You should first notice a good 1/4" of material that makes up the front ridge of the throttle body (shown in green). This ridge will be the first to grind away. Also, notice yet another ridge that is right in front of the throttle blade (shown in red). NOTE: Be very careful with the Dremel while grinding near this area. You DO NOT want to grind any material away from the front or back of the throttle blade.

    6.) Start grinding with the angle stone, stopping every now and then to check for roundness and consistency within the throttle bore. REMEMBER to take your time and check your progress every few minutes. Also, sand away the two screw ends that hold the throttle blade to the arm as they stick out into the throttle opening (shown in blue).

    7.) Next, take the 80 – 100 grit sanding drums and smooth the inside of the throttle body until you can run your fingers around the bore and not feel any bumps or snags.

    8.) When you think you have smoothed everything out, hold the throttle body up in a good light source and open the blade and check to make sure everything is consistent within the throttle body. It took me several times to finally get the back groove out because I was afraid to get the Dremel too close to the throttle blade. I found out that the groove is more noticeable from the back of the TB while being held at an angle.


    9.) Next, once everything is smooth, I roughed up the sensor area on the TB so the epoxy could adhere better.

    10.) Take your ballpoint pen casing and cut it to fit within the opening in the throttle body. Make sure that the pens aren’t pushed back too far as it may block air from going into the IAC or the intake vent tube. I used a little bit of epoxy to hold them in place, while I filled the rest of the area up. Try to get it in there good as to help get rid of any air bubbles. Also, try to form it like the rest of the throttle body (and be sure to leave enough material to grind way later) before the epoxy hardens. The kind I used hardened in less than three minutes.

    11.) The epoxy I used set in about five minutes and was then ready to grind away. I first ground down the pen housing until they were almost flush, then I carefully (as the epoxy is rather easy to grind away) smoothed out the epoxy until it was like the rest of the TB. I also used some 180 grit sand paper to finish it up.

    12.) Once you are satisfied with your work, blow out the bits of metal with the compressed air, and then clean the throttle body with rubbing alcohol. Admire your handy work!



    13.) The next step you don’t have to do, but I felt while I had the thing out, I might as well polish it so it can look good and to give it a smoother finish.

    14.) I purchased a Dremel polishing kit that comes with all the bits and accessories that you need to accomplish this task. The polish isn’t the best, but it would do for what I wanted.

    15.) I first started out with the heavy polishing stone. The stone will allow you to remove any sanding scratches in without removing a lot of the surface. I just used low RPM to pick up the polishing compound on the bit, then used a medium RPM with slight pressure and polished the entire inside of the throttle body bore.

    16.) After that was complete, I used the buffing drum (not the white buffing wheels – too soft – but the harder gray ones) with the polishing compound and buffed the surface with slightly more pressure to give it a glass like feel.

    17.) Take a breather and admire the beauty!


    TEST

    Yes!!! This is where all your blood, sweet and tears comes together in one happy moment (if everything goes right…. more on that later). Installation is the reverse of the removal. Torque the three 10mm bolts to 10 ft-lbs and you should be ready to roll. You should note that your car will idle very low when you first start it up. Just let it sit for about five or ten minutes while the computer relearns everything. You might even have to reset your PCM is it throws a code. Once the idle is back up to the norm, take your car out and run it through the gears. After I reset my PCM, I felt an immediate change in throttle response as well as more power in the lower RPMs. I highly recommend this mod to anyone who is looking to put some more “seat in the pants” feel into their F-Body! Good luck and enjoy!


    PROBLEMS

    As with most modifications that change fuel or air intake you can run into some problems. Let me explain mine that I encountered while performing this modification in hopes that it will help you.

    1.) When I first put the TB back into the car, my idle of coarse was very low. The computer finally relearned after about five minutes. I took my car out for a spin and felt some power increase, but it was feeling very sluggish in the upper RPMs. As soon as I got to my apartment, it throws a SES light. No problem, I reset the PCM by turning the ignition to the “ON” position, removed the PCM Bat and PCM IGN fused, let it sit for a couple of minutes, then turned the car off and reinserted the fuses. I have run the car for more than 150 miles with no light. During those miles, I have felt a definite increase in power. I can use fifth gear to pass people on the highway!

    2.) I used the pen casing way of letting the air get through sensor ports. Well, as you notice in the pic below, the pen that went in the IAC port was way too far back in the hole that it was not getting enough air. I simply ground down the pen and any extra epoxy from the area to make it breathe better.



    3.) While I had the TB off, I decided to go ahead and sand some more and polish the throttle body again, because I was not satisfied with the results. So, I went ahead and bought some 120 grit sanding drums and went over the entire bore again, then used 180 girt sand paper to detail the area and make it smoother. After that, I used the steps to polish the TB to give it this lovely appearance. The photo on the left is the first time I polished it, and the photo on the right is the time I went back over it.
    BEFORE 2ND POLISH

    AFTHER 2ND POLISH


    It is up to you how shiney and smooth you want it. Also, it depends on what kind of methods you use as well.
    COMPARATIVE PICS
    STOCK THROTTLE BODY

    AFTHER PORT AND POLISH

    STOCK TB OPENING

    AFTHER PORT AND POLISH


    I hope this write-up will help some of you all that have been thinking about doing this mod. I ported and polished my MAF ends before I did this (which I do not recommend to anyone). So, I had some practice with a Dremel before hand. Comparativly, the Throttle Body was a lot easier to grind material from. Just remember to take your time and check your progress often. If you see anything that needs to be changed or added, send me a PM. Have a good one
    Last edited by Flip; 03-27-2011 at 08:16 PM.
    Malandros Performance
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.3silverado View Post
    What 6.0 from malandros cause we all know that truck is a stroker 402 or 408

  2. #2
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    che flip voi aser eso kn mi tb thanks wei

  3. #3
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    Help me do it to mine bitch!

  4. #4
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    i wanna try it
    La notorious hd
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    very helpful filp
    puro STEALTH RACING ***!!!!!!!!
    2014 GMC Sierra stock for now

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    read this article on another forum, very helpful and well explained for those who want to port there own throttlebody


    thanks for posting it Flip!!!

  7. #7
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    help me do it to mine flip

    -1996 chevy silverado mild drop- SOLD
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  8. #8
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    Se ase con grinder oh sand paper ?
    La notorious hd
    03 6.0 fbo jr tranny posi 410s
    KOOL DESIGNS MOTORSPORTS

  9. #9
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    i did it on my tahoe when i had it and its easy guys not that hard idk about electronic but in the cable driven it worked bad ass
    Malandros Performance
    "La Compañia"
    6.0 H.C.I. 11.5@119 and 10.2@133 on the pill !!!! BY S.P.T.
    Quote Originally Posted by 5.3silverado View Post
    What 6.0 from malandros cause we all know that truck is a stroker 402 or 408

  10. #10
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    There is a guy called Mark Shaner, hes game is porting tb's, and hes from Texas too.

    http://www.s2performance.net/gmtrucks.html

    Nice thread btw


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